Leisure & Travel

Stunning vistas and salubrious climate of Himachal Pradesh

Whether it is for leisure, adventure sports such as mountaineering, fishing, paragliding, skiing, rock climbing, trekking or just plain relaxation amidst soaring mountains and pristine nature, Himachal has it all

As India’s middle class keeps expanding exponentially in the post-1991 era of economic liberalisation and deregulation, and perpetual shortages of airline and train tickets in summer are history, a growing number of upwardly mobile citizens are beginning to discover the charms of a uniquely subcontinental phenomenon: the country’s alluring hill stations. At the last count in Census 2001, India boasted 77 officially designated hill stations of which 11 are in Himachal Pradesh and fortunately these precious and enduring legacies of the British raj are liberally distributed across the country. Almost all the 29 states of the Indian Union boast at least one such prized and carefully preserved hill resort, and the one region which is perhaps the most well endowed with hill stations and contemporary tourism infrastructure is Himachal Pradesh, a tiny state (pop. 6.8 million) in the foothills of the mighty Himalayas — the world’s tallest mountain range.

Cocooned between Jammu & Kashmir and the fertile plains of Punjab and Haryana, Himachal borders Tibet in the north-east and attracted an estimated 7.6 million domestic and 2.81 lakh international tourists in 2006 — all drawn by its stunning scenery and salubrious climate.

The Himalayas sweep down into Himachal Pradesh from the north into the foothills, bringing snow and an Arctic chill to the region. The Pir Panjal and Dhauladhar mountain ranges run through the state culminating in the Shivaliks to the south and the Himalayas in the north. And whether it is for leisure, adventure sports such as mountaineering, fishing, paragliding, skiing, rock climbing, trekking or just plain relaxation amidst soaring mountains and pristine nature, Himachal Pradesh has it all.

The bustling hill-station capital of the state, Shimla (pop. 150,000) was first discovered by the British in 1819 before which it was part of the Nepalese kingdom and known as Shyamala (from which the name Shimla is derived). In their own inimitable style, the British persuaded the local raja to cede the town in 1830, and constructed this serene hill station which has since acquired the reputation of being the subcontinent’s most fashionable summer resort. In 1864, it was accorded the status of summer capital of British India. After the construction of the Kalka-Shimla railway line in 1903, Shimla blossomed as a tourist centre. In independent India, Shimla was initially the capital of Punjab. But in 1966 when the state of Himachal Pradesh was carved out of Punjab and Uttar Pradesh, it was declared the state’s capital.

Sited on a ridge in the Himalayan foothills at an altitude of 7,466 ft above mean sea level, the city enjoys a perennially cool climate. Being a state capital with well developed infrastructure and good road and rail access, Shimla is thronged by legions of summer tourists every year. Winters are cold due to icy winds that blow down from the upper reaches of the Himalayas. The best time to visit is between April and July.

Shimla has two central roads. The Mall Road aka the Ridge, runs from Christ Church to Scandal Point, the town’s apex. This is the most happening place where one can spend hours in coffee shops merely watching the world go by. Below the Ridge is Lakkad Bazaar, and as its name suggests, it’s a bustling marketplace offering carved wood products of all kinds including key chains, walking sticks, jewellery boxes, wall hangings etc.

A visit to Christ Church built between 1846 and 1857 to view its intricate stained glass windows is a delightful experience for art connoisseurs. This is ranked among the finest churches in the country symbo-lising hope, faith, patience and humility. The Jakhu temple, dedicated to Lord Hanuman, is accessible via a steep 45-minute uphill trek and offers sweeping vistas of Shimla. The 150-year-old Kali Bari temple is a venerated shrine of the region.

Excursions. The most popular excursion ex Shimla is Chail (45 km), sited at a breathtaking height of 7,568 ft. The former summer capital of Bhupinder Singh, maharaja of Patiala, when he was exiled from Shimla in 1891, Chail is a pretty, unhurried resort — a perfect antidote for frazzled, city weary folk. The town was planned as a luxury retreat for the Maharaja and therefore has vast cricket and golf grounds, several hunting and fishing lodges. Set amidst tall cedars and stately oaks, Chail is a year-round tourist destination. With the snow-capped Shivaliks in the background and fragrant pine valleys, this regal retreat is a perennial summer favourite.

Kufri (12 km) which nestles amid snowy pine slopes, offers scenic vistas of the Himalayan foothills, facilities for snow sports such as skiing, snowboarding and trekking and a deer park. The Sarahan-Sangla valley (200 km) with its beautiful river, mountains, forests and snow, is a small village with a spectacular view of Shrikhand Mahadev and offers hiking opportunities to the nearby villages of Ranwin and Bashal Peak. The Bhimakali temple, dedicated to Goddess Durga, is one of the finest examples of Himachali architecture. Within its courtyard is the Lankra Vir temple, where in the 19th century human sacrifices were performed to appease Bhimakali. Tradition lives on in the Astomi ritual during Dusshera when animals are sacrificed instead.

Accommodation. Being a popular honeymoon and tourist destination, even basic accommodation can be quite expensive. Top-End: Cecil (Rs.6,950-7,920), Oberoi Clarke’s Hotel (Rs.4,500-6,500 per night). Mid-range: Hotel Mehman (Rs.800-1,100), Hotel Doegar (Rs.800-1,500), Hotel White (Rs.500-1,600). Budget: YMCA (Rs.175-350), Hotel Classic (Rs.400-700), Hotel Ranjan (Rs.120-300).

The Kullu valley aka valley of the gods, is perhaps the most enchanting destination in the western Himalayas. Sprawled on both banks of the river Beas and running north to south, the main river valley is only 80 km long and 2 km wide at its broadest. Sited in the central region of the state, Kullu (pop. 3.8 lakh) is 240 km north of Shimla. Spring is the best time to visit Kullu, when the valley is covered with pink and white blossoms, and the aroma of blooming rhododendrons pervades the senses. Autumn offers clear blue skies with tints of crimson and ochre while in December all is white except for the majestic pines and cedars.

Situated on the banks of the Beas, Kullu, the headquarters of the district, serves as a nerve centre of the valley and is the starting point of trekking and mountaineering expeditions. The Great Himalayan National Park, home to the exotic musk deer, brown bear and the snow leopard, is contiguous to the town. A trek through this park to Rekte-Sar and camping amid alpine pastures affords a flavour of the local wilderness. The Kanawar Sanctuary located in the Parvati Valley is the habitat of the endangered Himalayan Thar, a large goat seen on high mountainous precipices.

For the spiritually inclined there are the Raghunath and Jagannathi Devi temples. The former is sited in the city while the latter is perched atop a hill and accessible via a knees-testing 90-minute climb. But the fantastic view of Kullu town is well worth the effort. The Bijli Mahadev temple, often struck by lightning, is sited close to town.

Accommodation. Top-end: Hotel Shobha International (Rs.990-2,200), Hotel Ramneek (Rs.500-1,000). Mid-range and Budget: Hotel Vikrant (Rs.300-450), Hotel Bijleshwar View (Rs.200-500), Aaditya Guest House (Rs.70-350).

Situated at the confluence of the Beas and the Manalsu rivers, at the northern end of the Kullu valley nestles the highly commercialised and touristy town of Manali (pop.4,400). This busy yet charming hill station offers soul-soothing vistas of the majestic Pir Panjal and Bara Bhangal ranges. In the 1970s and 80s, Manali was a hot spot for bohemians and hippies in the summer, drawn probably by the high quality marijuana that grows naturally in the area.

Legend has it that Lord Manu (Hinduism’s Noah) stepped off a boat in Manali to recreate life after floods devastated the world. Manali (home of Manu) is named after him. There is much to do and see here. Among the popular attractions of the city are: the Hadimba temple, a four-storey wooden structure built amidst vast forested land in 1553; Dhungri village which is an easy 2 km walk from the town centre where old family homes have been converted into guesthouses and the cascading Rahalla Falls dropping from a height of 8,500 ft.

Manali is also the base for mountain adventure sports like skiing (November-April), heli-skiing (January-March), paragliding (round the year) in the Solang valley, river rafting on the fast-flowing Beas (April-July).

Excursions. The Solang Nala skiing slope and Rohtang Pass (open July-September) are not-to-be-missed destinations. The 51-km climb up to Rohtang Pass (13,980 ft) is intense, with stunning views of mountains, valleys, snow capped peaks and glaciers. A short trek from Rohtang is the Sarkund (Dashair) lake which is thronged by visitors because its waters are believed to have curative properties.

Accommodation. There are hundreds of hotels in Manali, so booking in advance is not necessary. Top-end: Banon Resort (Rs.2,300-5,900), Negi’s Hotel Mayflower (Rs.1,600-2,500), Johnson’s Lodge (Rs.1,500-2,500). Mid-range: Hotel Snow View (Rs.1,100-1,800), Hotel Kunzam (Rs.1,100-1,700), Hotel River Bank (Rs.500-1,000). Budget: Hotel Dream River (Rs.300-450), Tourist Nest (Rs.300-400).

Best known as the home-town of his Holiness the Dalai Lama, Dharamsala comprises two distinct pockets: Lower Dharamsala, the busy commercial area with government buildings, bazaar and bus stand and McLeodganj, the higher settlement which Tibetans in exile have made their home. Dense pine and deodar forests and gurgling streams are the hallmark of this quaint hill station, which still retains the flavour of the British raj.

In this seat of Tibet’s government-in-exile, McLeodganj is the Dalai Lama’s Indian home and has became a centre for Tibetan culture, housing the School of Tibetan Studies, a storehouse of manuscripts and ancient texts. Another interesting destination is the Tibetan Institute for the Performing Arts where visitors can take in the lhamo (Tibetan Opera). The Kangra Art Museum hosts an excellent collection of miniature paintings of the famous 17th century Kangra School of Art, and is definitely worth visiting.

For the spiritually inclined, the Tibetan new year in March is the best time to visit, as the Dalai Lama interacts with the public and delivers lectures on spirituality, Buddhism and philosophy. Buddhism courses are also offered at the Tushita Retreat Centre.

Accommodation. Most hotels are located at McLeodganj. Top-end: Hotel Him Queen (Rs.800-2,000), Surya Resorts (Rs.1,200-1,600), Hotel India House (Rs.800-1,650). Mid-range: Kareri Lodge (Rs.450-900), Hotel Tibet (Rs.500-900), Pema Thang Guest House (Rs.550-800). Budget: Om Guest House (Rs.125-250), Green Hotel (Rs.100-500), Loling Guest House (Rs.60-350).

Built at an awesome height of 6,557 ft, Kasauli, is a quaint village offering a strong colonial influence offering fascinating bird’s eye views of Chandigarh (65 km), Shimla (77 km) and the skyscraping Himalayas. The narrow winding roads snaking up and down the hillsides, offer breathtaking valley views.

During the 17th century, driven by unsettled political conditions, some Rajput families from Rewari (present-day Haryana) fled their homes and took refuge in the lower Himalayas, finally settling down in a village called Kasul adjacent to a permanent fresh water spring. Today, some three centuries later, the spring is the site of a water reservoir and Kasul has grown into a delightful little hill station. But some locals believe that Kasauli comes from Kausalya, a mountain stream that flows between Kasauli and Jabli. The name might even have been derived from Kusmawali or Kusmali, meaning flower maiden. Given the abundance with which the hills of Kasauli bloom from spring to autumn, this is the generally accepted version.

The charm of Kasauli is its old world ambience and chaste natural beauty. The hillsides are covered with pine and the ground thickly carpeted with resin-rich needles. Giant oak trees, firs, horse chestnut, wild cherry and several varieties of deciduous trees suffuse the countryside which is why spring is so beautiful in Kasauli, when trees and bushes turn into gossamer pink, green and silver as they sprout new leaves.

A mere 4 km from the Kasauli bus stand is Monkey Point, a vantage point for panoramic views of the distant plains of Chandigarh and the river Sutlej, tracing a shiny trail through the landscape. A small temple dedicated to Lord Hanuman is situated atop the hill. Other famous locales in Kausali are the century-old Lawrence School, Sanawar, Dharampur, one of the best hospitals in India for the cure of tuberculosis and the Kasauli Club, founded in 1880 and the haunt of the well-heeled residents of the town.

Accommodation. This is the closest hill station to Delhi, but miraculously uncrowded. There are several hotel options. Among them: Alasia Hotel (Rs.1,600-2,200), Hotel Ros Common (Rs.1,000-1,500), Hotel Anchal (Rs.400-450).

Dalhousie

Established in 1854 by the British governor-general Lord Dalhousie, this hill station is sandwiched between the Dhauladhar and Pir Panjal ranges, at an altitude of 6,550 ft above mean sea level. It is easily accessible from the plains and retains much of its old-world charm. Built around five hills, Dalhousie is clad in stately groves of deodar and oak. Its marvelous forest trails overlook verdant hills, waterfalls, springs and rivulets. Magnificent views of the Chamba Valley and the towering Dhauladhar range fill the entire horizon and a distinctly colonial touch is preserved in its quaint stone buildings and houses. A coating of Tibetan culture has added a touch of the exotic to this serene resort and along the roads there are huge rock frescoes painted in Tibetan style.

The town hosts five churches of wonderfully crafted architecture, the oldest being St. John’s Church built in 1863 with a 19th century stained glass painting of Jesus flanked by St. John and St. Peter. Another ancient monument is the St. Francis Church built in 1894. Close to the town, en route to Panchpulla, are the seven sparkling springs of Satdhara, rich in mica and noted for their medicinal properties. Thandi and Garam sadaks (roads) of the Mall are pleasant promenades for exhilarating walks and social chatter.

Excursions. Easily accessible and interesting outings from Dalhousie include Kala Top (8.5 km), the waterfalls at Panchpullah (five bridges) and Patryen hills.

Accommodation. There are many hotels, but most of them are in a dilapidated state. The better ones are: Top-end: Hotel Grand View (Rs.2,050-2,750), Hotel Mount View (Rs.1,500-2,400). Mid-range: HPTDC Hotel Geetanjali (Rs.550-800), Hotel Goher (Rs.500-1,200), Hotel New Metro (Rs.500-1,000). Budget: Hotel Crags (Rs.110-650), Youth Hostel (Rs.40-200), Hotel Aarti (Rs.350).

Asha Vohra